Our first trip to the Daytona area was in 2020 when Covid really threw a wrench into our stay. This year (2023) is Daytona Beach redux and we’re hoping to do the things we didn’t get to do last time. Daytona Beach and the surrounding area has more activities than snow birds can accomplish in only one season. Orlando and its theme parks are a little over an hour’s drive away and winter is a good time to visit, assuming schools aren’t on a break. Also within an hour’s drive are St. Augustine, the oldest continuously operating city in the US, and the Kennedy Space Center.
In the immediate area, you can take boat journeys on inland waterways to find alligators lazing under the Florida sun and snap photos of the oversized freshwater fish often snagged at the end of their fishing lines. There are a few famous events that take place during the winter, such as the Daytona 500 and the Daytona Bike Week. There are several other, smaller events as well. Combined with the beaches, there are plenty of things to keep snow birds busy in Dayton Beach.
Daytona Beach Redux – Things to do
Ponce Inlet Lighthouse
One of the first things to do is plan a visit to the Ponce Inlet lighthouse. Built in 1887 and at 175 feet, it’s the tallest lighthouse in Florida and the second tallest brick lighthouse North America, Cape Hatteras being the tallest. The Cape Charles Light in Virginia is taller than the Ponce Inlet Lighthouse but has a cast iron skeleton. There’s your bit of minutiae for your next game of Trivial Pursuit. The climb to the top is 203 steps but the view to the ocean and over the inlet is well worth the effort. The fee is very reasonable to tour the buildings and clamber up the lighthouse.
The Lens Exhibit Building houses a nice collection of lighthouse lenses including some rare restored Frenzel lenses. It’s an interesting display if you’re into that kind of stuff.
Nearby Lighthouse Point Park in Ponce Inlet is a great place to have an afternoon picnic. Visitors traverse boardwalk paths cut through natural vegetation that ultimately lead to the Ponce Inlet jetty with an amazing lookout point perfect for photos. You’ll often see dolphins swimming in the channel and, if you’re lucky, a manatee or two.
Marine Science Center
After visiting the lighthouse, take a short walk around the corner and stop at the Marine Science Center. The first year, we were waiting to visit that when our grandson came down, but the virus had other plans. We did, however, get to watch the Marine Science Center release some birds they had rehabbed while we were strolling the beach.
On the Daytona Beach redux trip, we made it inside. The center is geared toward educating the visitors on their efforts to protect and rehabilitate the local marine life. There were a few school field trips visiting the center while we were there. Once inside, the first exhibit is the stingray touch tank. We happened to be there at feeding time. The staff passed out small shrimp and fish to anyone who wanted the rays to eat out their hand. Next is the turtle rehabilitation area. There were some sad stories posted on how some of the turtles ended up there, such as getting tangled up in discarded fishing line and swallowing fish hooks.
There are exhibits detailing the center’s efforts to establish artificial reefs and maintaining the mangroves on local barrier islands. The bird rehabilitation building has a box outside to drop off injured birds, should you come across one. Unfortunately, the boardwalk to the bird rehabilitation area was under repair so we couldn’t see that operation.
Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge
Less than an hour’s drive from Daytona Beach is the Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge, home to more endangered species than anywhere else in the US. Situated on 140,000 acres acting as a buffer between civilization and the rockets launched at nearby Kennedy Space Center, this is a great place to see Florida the way it was before man put his stamp on it. As a gateway site to Florida’s Birding Trail, this is a birdwatcher’s paradise. The refuge has the most diverse bird population in the country with over 300 species being identified in the park.
There is a Visitors Center located on FL-402 with a lot of helpful information. There are several well maintained hiking trails in the park to check out the wildlife and fauna – and even some other little critters.
You’ll also find boat launch areas and sites for fishing if that’s your thing. There is also an observation deck on State Route 3 near the drawbridge over Haulover Canal where manatees frequently congregate. The deck was closed due to Covid-19 restrictions our first time down but this year we got to see some of the friendly mammals.
The highlight for us, was the 7 mile Black Point Wildlife Drive Loop. It’s a slow, meandering drive on a dirt road, crossing a variety of ecosystems and revealing an abundance of wildlife (often camouflaged by the surroundings). The slower you drive, the more you’ll see. According to the rangers, more than 50 species of waterfowl, shorebirds, songbirds, and raptors live here. Along the way you’ll find an observation tower. You should definitely climb it because the surrounding view is majestic. It’s hard to believe all this emptiness can be so beautiful.
Kennedy Space Center
One of our favorite days during Daytona Beach redux was heading to the Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex. The compound is organized into Mission Zones. Attractions and tours are grouped by historical era, from the earliest days of the space race to current and ongoing missions. Each attraction gives you an up-close, hands-on feel for the story of humans in space. Included with admission is a bus tour which drives you out to the Apollo/Saturn V Center. This is where NASA launched astronauts to the Moon and where NASA plans to send others into deep space. On display is an Apollo capsule (very cramped quarters) and a Saturn V rocket (that thing is HUGE). On the way, the tour passes historic launch sites and the Vehicle Assembly Building.
As luck would have it, there was rocket launch was scheduled to go off on the day we visited. Unfortunately, the launch was scrubbed at the last minute.
Road Trip!
Covid-19 wrecked a lot of our plans last time down. Being big Red Sox fans, I had arranged to take a trip to Ft. Myers to catch a spring training game. Unfortunately, that got suspended when the MLB shut down all spring training events. We made up for that during our Daytona Beach redux. A game at Jet Blue Park seems to be quite the event with bands and a stilt walker, among other entertainment. We sat on top of the Monster here since that is a tough ticket to get in Boston. Of course, I didn’t leave without a couple hundred dollars worth of swag.
Daytona Beach Redux – Beaches
Our favorite activity, if you can call it that, is going to the beach and there is an abundance of beaches in the area to try. Actually, it’s the same beach, just different access points. Beaches are a mix of seclusion and bustling activity. Some areas you have to park in a lot or on the road and walk down to the beach. These are the no-drive areas. Other areas have a ramp to drive your car down onto the beach.
The sand is flat and smooth from Ponce Inlet to Ormond Beach, making it great for walking or riding a bicycle. I bought a beach pass for access to drive on the beaches for $80/year. The cost is $20/day so it’s a no-brainer since we’re staying for 4 months. And driving down is way easier than parking in a lot somewhere and hauling chairs and beach accoutrements down to the shore. I’m getting lazy in my old age. Just pay attention to the tide charts, as you can’t drive on the beach when the tide is high.
Daytona Beach
I have to start with Daytona Beach, the world’s most famous beach. And the busiest. This beach has a slight carnival atmosphere. Ice cream trucks will drive up and down the beach and you can find food trucks and beach equipment rentals on the beach. There are also several restaurants, bars and other amenities just steps off the beach, so once you park, you never have to leave. Well, at least until the beach closes at dark.
There’s an old style boardwalk nearby with eateries, an arcade and a couple of amusement park rides that’s seen better days. A short stroll down the beach is the famous Daytona Pier which has Joe’s Crab Shack and a fishing area.
Ponce Inlet Beach
One of our favorite beaches is in Ponce Inlet. Access is at the appropriately named Beach Street. This is a much less trafficked beach that is popular with surfers. We found out later that this area has the most consistent breakers (I picked up some surfer lingo) on the east coast. There are so many surfers here, in fact, that swimming is a bit difficult. You definitely have to have your head on a swivel to keep from getting run over.
There is a jetty here guarding the inlet to the Intra-coastal Waterway that’s a popular fishing spot. The fishing poles are lined up like a picket fence at times. At one end of the beach, near the jetty, is a boardwalk to a county park with bathrooms. There’s even a nice view of the lighthouse peaking over the sand dunes.
Ormond Beach
In 1903, the smooth, hard-packed sands of Ormond Beach became a proving ground for automobile inventors and drivers. These first speed tournaments in the US earned Ormond the title “Birthplace of Speed”. Driving on the beach in Ormond is a tradition as several land speed records were set here. There are more than a half-dozen beach access points that have restrooms and showers, usually located between condos. Some even have a play area for kids and/or a pavilion with grills for a picnic. The downside is you have to carry your beach equipment down to the beach and probably quite a ways from the crossover to find an empty space, and since there are a lot of condos nearby, there’s a lot of people.
New Smyrna Beach
New Smyrna is what comes to mind when I think of a touristy Florida beach town. The town is filled with restaurants and shops (and restrooms) catering to visitors. The New Smyrna area has a nice beach with several driving access points. The north part of town is the location of the Smryna Dune County Park, which is less populated and more natural looking. Locals told us that this area (and the Ponce Inlet beach) has the most consistent breakers on the east coast. So if you’re into surfing, this is the spot. While you’re here, there are a couple dining options that we like. One is. . . .
Cafe Verde
The Cafe Verde is a good alternative to the regular beach fare. The interior is relaxed and inviting. There is also an option for outdoor seating. They offer several multicultural dishes in keeping with their catch phrase of Food Without Borders. They use all natural and locally grown ingredients to create their unique dishes with plenty of choices for vegetarians.
Definitely try the bibimbap, which is a Korean dish with a great balance of flavors. The yellow Thai coconut curry, which can be ordered mild, medium or spicy. or the ginger soy ahi tuna are both excellent, as well.
The Garlic, New Smyrna
This is by far our favorite restaurant in the Daytona Beach area. It has a relaxed atmosphere with the aromas of authentic Italian cuisine wafting in the air. There is also nightly entertainment from local performers. There are a couple of wood-fired pizza ovens and a great wine list. It’s really a unique dining experience. It’s always crowded so plan accordingly.
Flagler Beach
Flagler beach is what comes to mind when I think of a Florida beach town. North of Daytona about 20 minutes. Shops, restaurants and of course the beach. Sand is looser, more coarse. many access points. No drive beach. Plenty of parking.
Daytona Beach Redux – Events
Bike Week
If there is a more motorcycle-centric city, I don’t know where that is. There’s a motorcycle dealer are on every corner, it seems. What better place to host the season’s first bike week. The Daytona Bike Week is dubbed the world’s largest motorcycle event and a top 20 event by the Southeast Tourism Society. Scattered throughout the area are street festivals, concerts, motorcycle races, bike shows, rallies, manufacturer showcases, live music daily Even if you don’t own a motorcycle, you need to check this event out.
Rossmeyer’s Harley Davidson
Every motorcycle dealer in the Daytona area has events during bike week and vendors are scattered throughout the area. But if you want one-stop shopping, head to Bruce Rossmeyer’s H-D in Ormond Beach. This is the headquarters for the most vendors if you want to check out accessories or find some upgrades for your bike, most vendors are at Bruce Rossmeyer’s Harley-Davidson dealer in Ormond Beach. You can also sit and listen to live music while eating some barbecue, hamburgers or other food.
Daytona International Speedway
The midway at the Daytona International Speedway is the place to take a demo ride on that new bike you’ve had your eye on. We took a spin in the Vanderhall and a Slingshot.
This is also the place show off your ride at one of several bike shows and ogle some very creative (and expensive) custom bikes with paint jobs to match. Make time to look for motorcycle related merchandise at the vendors here and listen to some talented bands at the Harley-Davidson Thunder Alley stage while grabbing a bite to eat.
Inside the speedway are the races. They truck in tons of dirt for the Supercross races held during the week.
Main Street
Daytona Beach’s legendary Main Street entertainment district is the heart of bike week activities with restaurants, clubs, bars, live music and bikes. Lots and lots of bikes. Some traditional bikes and some pretty exotic bikes with owners that are just as exotic. If you’re a people watcher, this is the place to be.
Iron Horse Saloon
Another stop during bike week is the World Famous Iron Horse Saloon in Ormond, a ten-minute drive up US 1 from Daytona Beach. The Iron Horse Saloon is a well-known Daytona biker bar famous for it’s concerts and fabulous menu. During bike week, there are a number of venues from which to satisfy your appetite. The hands down winner and the place with the longest line was Graiger’s Steak Tips. Tender, lean grilled steak tips served over a bed of mashed potatoes with mushrooms, peppers and onions piled on top. We went back a second day just for that.
The upper deck, which surrounds the back area, is a great place to eat your meal, watch the bands and all the great looking bikes coming and going.
There’s even a repurposed school bus serving as the upstairs bar. Just make sure you bring plenty of cash when you come because no one (other than the souvenir shop) accepts credit cards.
The Daytona International Speedway
The Daytona International Speed way is host to a number of events throughout the winter and spring. Not all of them are related to racing. There are boat shows, RV shows, car shows and anything else that requires a lot of space (like the aforementioned Bike Week). But races are the main event.
Rolex 24
About two weeks before the Daytona 500, the speedway hosted the Rolex 24. This was our first race experience ever. The race started on Saturday at about 1:30pm and continued for 24 hours into Sunday. We went Sunday morning to see the finish.
Four classes of cars all racing at the same time. We got passes to get into the garage area.
We also found our way onto pit row.
There was a road racing course in the infield as part of the race. We were able to get a real feel for how fast these cars were going into the turns as were were just on the other side of the fence.
Daytona 500
There are a few events that qualify as must see events. The Daytona 500 is one of them. I have to confess, I am not a NASCAR fan, but this race is an iconic American event and has been a bucket list item for us.
We arrived early to walk around outside and check the vendors out.
Security was tight since President Trump was going to be here. Everything online said the race started a 2:30. Don’t believe it. The pre-race ceremonial stuff started at 2:30. The race didn’t start until about 4:00 due to a short rain delay. After 20 laps, the rain started again but his time it washed out the race until the next day.
Another Speedway Event
The Daytona International Speedway isn’t just for racing. Boat shows, RV shows, Jeep Beach Week and a host of other events are held here. One event is the Daytona Turkey Run, which bills itself as ‘the largest combined car show and swap meet in the USA’. Half the infield is filled with vendors hawking collector car parts and memorabilia. The other half has over 5000 cars on display. Walking around looking at all the cars and reminiscing is a great way to spend the day.
Daytona Beach Redux – Restaurants
Another thing on the top of our list of things to do, other than go to the beach, is eating. There is no shortage of places to spend your dining dollars within 30 minutes of Daytona Beach. Unfortunately, about halfway through our first time here, Covid-19 reared its ugly head and closed all the restaurants and bars. During Daytona Beach redux, we got to check out some of the ones we missed and revisit our favorites.
Our 7 Favorite Waterfront Restaurants
Other than the aforementioned Garlic restaurant, these are our favorite places to eat. To make this list, the restaurant must meet three criteria. First, the view has to be incredible. Second, there has to be outside seating. Finally, the food has to be exceptional. There were a few that had great views but the food didn’t measure up. Or the food was great but the view was less than spectacular or there was no outside seating. That being said, here’s our list.
7) Crabby Joe’s
We love restaurants like Crabby Joe’s. Nothing fancy, and you can’t get a much better view being situated on a pier over the ocean. You can even feel a little sway as the waves pound against the pier pilings. The food is excellent. I had the grilled Mermaid Fish Reuben. It has a nice sized piece of grilled fish with Russian dressing and cole slaw instead of sauerkraut between two thick slices of toasted marble rye. Cathy’s fish tacos were also very good and nicely seasoned. Fishermen come through the restaurant on their way to and from the pier or the bait shop outside. Condiments are in a tackle box in keeping with the fishing theme. Unfortunately, the hurricanes in 2022 took the pier out so we didn’t get to revisit here during Daytona Beach redux. The plan is to re-open in the near future. I hope that happens as it would be a shame to lose this gem.
6) Hidden Treasure Rum Bar & Grill, Ponce Inlet
Hidden Treasure is an old Florida fish camp located on the water across from the lighthouse. There is outdoor seating with a beautiful view of the inlet with pelicans and seagulls sunning themselves on old dock pilings. Try the shrimp and grits. They deep fry half the grits and add A LOT of cheese and shrimp. This is a nice twist on an old southern favorite. Every dish at our table had very generous portions.
5) Funky Pelican
The Funky Pelican advertises itself as the ‘ultimate oceanside dining and beach bar destination’. It’s hard to dispute that assessment. The sister restaurant of the previously mentioned Crabby Joe’s is located next to the Flagler Pier in Flagler Beach. The Yellowfin Tuna Tacos are excellent and are served with a tasty black bean salad. Other favorites are the Maddie’s Shrimp and Grits, Florida Reuben made with blackened fish and key lime tartar, and the Seafood Jambalaya. Follow it all up with a slice of their delicious key lime pie. There is seating both inside and out but go on a sunny day and get a table outside near the rail for a great view of Flagler Beach, the pier and the ocean.
4) The River Grille on the Tokoma
The River Grille is a sister restaurant of the Funky Pelican and Crabby Joe’s. The view over the river from the deck is delightful. The menu is cajun-inspired but you can also get your food grilled or fried. We had excellent meals and the service is outstanding. There’s even a deck for people to congregate with their beverages while waiting for their table or to just hang out. Just make sure you get there before the sun sets because that’s when the mosquitos come out in force.
3) Fysh Bar & Grill
The Fysh Bar & Grill sits overlooking the Halifax River in the Port Orange Riverwalk Park. You can dine with the river as a backdrop from any seat in the house – inside or out. The best tables are on the rooftop with the 7,000 square foot bar and elevated views of the waterway. The extensive menu is made up of American, Italian Japanese selections with a number of sushi options. We had a difficult time making up our mind. After dinner, check out the gelato station downstairs for dessert. The dinners are a little pricey but the scenery is more than worth it.
2) Caribbean Jack’s
We’re down to the finalists for our favorite waterfront restaurant. After a difficult deliberation, we determined that the runner up is Caribbean Jack’s. The outside deck overlooks the Intracoastal Waterway and while other restaurants have better views, the food here is first-rate – especially the dishes that incorporate the lobster sauce. Jack Gilbert was a rum runner in the prohibition era who tired of the game and opened a restaurant in the Daytona area. Check out the live entertainment and daily Happy Hour.
1) Down the Hatch
The restaurant with the best combination of outside seating, view and food is Down the Hatch. While we thoroughly enjoyed the food at Caribbean Jack’s and here, the view put Down the Hatch over the top. This is a great stop to get a bite to eat while you’re in Ponce Inlet visiting the lighthouse, the Marine Science Center, or enjoying the beach or water sports. The restaurant started as a commercial fishing dock and morphed into a fish camp followed by a seafood store. The deck has a captivating view overlooking the intracoastal waterway and a nearby marina. And the food is fantastic. I had the Hatch Shrimp Boat which had sauteed shrimp in a nicely seasoned cheese sauce while Cathy had a blacked grouper sandwich. The waitress talked us into trying the cheesecake for dessert and, boy, am I glad she did. It was the best I ever had. So here’s a shout out to the maker Brian of Cheesecake Chinos. I’m hoping I can get some shipped back home. If you time things right, you can enjoy your cheesecake while witnessing a spectacular sunset over the river.
You really can’t go wrong with any of these restaurants. They all had great views with terrific food. I would be interested in hearing from those that have any dining experiences from the aforementioned eateries to see where you rank them.
Heading Home
There’s plenty of things to do in the Daytona Beach area to keep anyone busy for the winter months. I’m sure there are some things we missed, but winter is over and the weather is now tolerable back home. For now, it’s time to head back. Now it’s time to start planning our summer travels. Stay tuned to see where we end up. In the meantime, I’ll leave you with a couple sunrise pictures over the Atlantic.
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