A Vacation in St. Croix - The Big Slow - Our Second Half Adventures

My brother bought a condo in St. Croix and told me I have to go use it some time. Duty calls so we made reservations for a vacation in the Big Slow for early October, 2017. Unfortunately, Hurricane Maria had different plans for us as she rolled through St. Croix about a week before we were to go. As a result, we ended up rescheduling for two weeks in early April, 2018, after spending the winter in the Florida Panhandle.

A Few Early Observations

Flying in at night, we didn’t get to see the turquoise waters that everyone raves about as we approached the island. We picked up our rental car and headed to the condo, following the directions my brother gave us. We quickly learned that road signs are severely lacking. My original thought was that the hurricane had taken a lot of them out. Not true. They never really existed to be taken out. After getting lost and stopping to ask directions, we found out the locals don’t do road signs, road names or route numbers.

We learned a couple quick lessons in our first few days. One is that the island is called ‘The Big Slow’ for a reason. Nothing and nobody moves fast. Twenty minutes to get a cup of coffee at a drive through is normal. Another quick lesson – driving on the left side of the road is harder than you think. Old driving habits continually try to take over. Several times I thought to myself ‘what is that idiot doing? Oh, wait…I’m the idiot’. We were able to make the necessary adjustments.

Home Base

After finally finding the condo and getting a good night’s rest, we headed out in the morning to scope out the complex grounds.

There is a small beach area on the grounds with chairs, a couple beach cabanas and a view of Buck Island in the distance (more on that later). There’s the clear, Caribbean waters we heard so much about!

You can see these storms coming for miles. Head indoors when it gets close and 10 minutes later, you’re back on the beach in bright sunshine.

You can island hop between the US Virgin Islands.

We watched this plane take of and land constantly from the condo beach. Seaborne Airlines will take you from St. Croix to St. Thomas for about $200 round trip. The QE IV Ferry can take you there in about 2 1/2 hours for $120 round trip.

Christiansted

Christiansted is the largest town on the island and is located on the shores of Christiansted Harbor. It was once the capital of the Danish West Indies and still exhibits the 18th-century Danish-style architecture. There are plenty of shops and restaurants in Christiansted as well as chickens and other ‘guests’.

This guy is making sure we enjoy our lunch at RumRunners

With so many chickens running around, why is it so expensive in the grocery stores?

Protestant Cay is an small island in the Christiansted Harbor which sports a resort hotel, a sand beach,and several shops and restaurants. There is a free ferry providing service to and from Protestant Cay that leaves from King’s Wharf about every 15 minutes.

Lunch at Angry Nate’s overlooking Protestant Cay

There is no shortage of places to eat in Christiansted

An old sugar mill converted to a pizza shop

Sonya Hough of Sonya Ltd., a jeweler in Christiansted, designed these hook bracelets. When the hook is worn with the hook pointing toward your heart, it means you love is taken. When worn away from your heart, you’re looking for love. There are other places in the Caribbean and on the internet to get one, but the original, real deal Crucian Hook Bracelet can only be found at Sonya Ltd. on Company Street in Christiansted, where they are still made by hand.

Christiansted National Historic Site

Next to the commercial district stands the Christiansted National Historic Site, consisting of six historic buildings. The fort was built to protect the citizens from piracy and privateers, plus put down any slave revolts. It also served as the county jail.

Home of the commanding officer inside the fort

The cannons overlooking the harbor. The only way into the harbor is in front of the fort due to the coral reefs surrounding the island. A foreign invasion was all but impossible.

Merchants sailing into Christiansted Harbor weighed their goods at The Scale House and then went to The Customs House to pay taxes.

Point Udall

Point Udall, at the east end of the island, is the easternmost point of the United States, named for Stewart Udall, the Secretary of Interior under JFK and LBJ. A sundial known as Millennium Monument was built on the hill above Udall Point in preparation for New Year’s, 2000. It helps mark the first appearance of the first sunrise of the United States in the new millennium. This is a great place to watch the sunrise, so we’re told. We were too lazy to find out.

Fun fact – the westernmost point of the US in Guam is also named

Point Udall, after Stewart’s brother Morris.

The views from Pt. Udall are spectacular!

On the way to Pt. Udall, we passed this big dish antenna. My first thought was maybe they were looking for life in another universe. I was close.

We saw this establishment on the way to Pt. Udall, as well. Bulgarian Contessa Nadia Farber was so captivated by the views overlooking both the north and south shores of the island that she and her husband, Sid Farber bought the land and built this castle. Want your own slice of life in the US Virgin Islands? Buy this 10,000 square foot home on 102 acres for only a cool $10 million. A real bargain since it was originally listed at $15 million.

There is a quarter-mile (ish) path from a nearby parking area at Pt. Udall that goes down to this beach. Locals told us that it is the best beach on the island. Obviously there are no amenities and you have to carry your chairs, cooler and other gear in and out but it’s supposedly well worth the effort. As a bonus(?), it’s allegedly a clothing optional beach. We have no firsthand knowledge of any of this.

Chenay Bay

Speaking of beaches, St. Croix has an abundance of beaches and we did our best to sample as many as we could during our stay. While all the beaches are public in St. Croix, many are accessed by a resort property. Some say there is a fee to enter the property to get to the beach but we were never asked to pay. Chenay Bay is a peaceful resort on the eastern end of the island. The sand is nice and soft and it’s great for walking and finding shells and other sea treasures.

The water here is calm and warmer since it’s shallower at this part of the island. There’s also a cafe and bar. There isn’t any shade at the resort beach but you can rent chairs for $5 and an umbrella for $10. If you walk to the west a little bit, there is a public area with some trees for shade but you’ll need to bring your own chairs. There’s a dirt road to get in there between Tamarind Reef Resort and Chenay Bay but I couldn’t find it.

Tamarind Reef Resort

Tamarind Reef Resort is a very picturesque beach and is a great spot for snorkeling. The Sun Fun Hut rents snorkeling gear, SUPs and kayaks as well as chairs and umbrellas. Palm trees stand at the edge of the beach for shade so we didn’t need to rent an umbrella. The water has a lot of seaweed and coral and there’s supposed to be a path past it to a nice swimming area. I could see it but couldn’t find the path (are you sensing a theme here?). The Deep End Bar and Grill is next to the beach if you get hungry.

Lots of iguanas roam the property nest to the marina

There were vestiges of Hurricane Maria everywhere we went on the island

Cane Bay Beach

Cane Bay beach is on the north shore and is the locals favorite. There is a beach bar, a restaurant across the road and chair rental. The main attraction is the wall, located about 200 yards off shore. St. Croix is known for world class Caribbean scuba diving as the island is almost completely surrounded by a barrier reef. The most well known part of this coral reef runs along the north shore and is simply known as ‘The Wall’. The most popular site for shore diving (and snorkeling) is the Cane Bay Wall. If you’re into diving, there are dive shops in Christiansted and Fredricksted that rent gear and/or arrange for a boat to take you out there. There’s even a dive shop right across the street from the beach.

Renaissance Carambola Beach Resort

We tried to check out the beach at the Renaissance Carambola Beach Resort but it hadn’t re-opened since the hurricane. From a distance, we did see a lot of blue tarp roofs on the property so I Imagine there was still a lot of work to do. Marriott picked a great spot for the resort as the area is built into some bluffs that are very picturesque.

Gentle Winds Beach

Gentle Winds beach isn’t in a resort, per say, but rather a community of town homes and condominiums that are independently owned. I’m not sure if the pool, chairs and cabanas were for owners only but no one said anything to us. It is a nice beach with a small, shallow swim area due to the rocks surrounding it.

Rainbow Beach

Time to scope out the beaches on the west end of the island. First up – Rainbow Beach. Of all the beaches we visited, I personally liked Rainbow Beach the best. They have chairs, umbrellas, snorkeling gear, paddleboards and seadoos available to rent. There is a net set up if you want to engage in some beach volleyball and also a cornhole set if you want a little less strenuous activity. The water does have some rocky spots so you’ll need to watch where you step. Rhythms Beach Bar is only steps from the beach for food and drinks and usually has live music. It’s a popular hangout spot on Sunday, otherwise referred to a ‘Sunday Funday’.

The water is calmer at the west end beaches and they are great places to watch the sunset. The saying on the island is ‘West is best’. I agree but it all depends on what you’re looking for. The west end beaches are a bit more populated so if you want quiet solitude, this might not be your cup of tropical beverage.

Sand Castle on the Beach Resort

Another west end beach is at Sand Castle on the Beach Resort. It’s a beautiful stretch of beach with nice, calm waters with some nice areas for snorkeling and a beach side restaurant and bar. You can get a day pass for $25 which includes 2 chairs, an umbrella, towels, 2 glasses of rum punch and access to the pool, showers and restrooms. We walked in like we owned the place and used the chairs and restrooms without paying the fee. We visited Fredricksted in the morning and had a great beach day in the afternoon, ate dinner and hung around to watch the sunset with a couple cocktails. Perfect ending to a perfect day.

There was one cloud in the sky when the sun set

Buccaneer Resort

The Buccaneer Resort is by far the nicest resort in St.Croix. It has three restaurants, a golf course, three beaches, two pools and a spa. It’s also very expensive. We visited the Mermaid beach which is fantastic. The Mermaids Beach Bar and Restaurant is steps away to grab a beverage or a bite. There are plenty of chairs but we did have to jockey with other beach goers for shade. The water-sports center has kayaks, snorkeling gear, floats and towels for guests of the resort. Others are on your own. The resort is gated so we had to tell the guard we were going to the beach. There’s supposed to be a charge for visitors but either they don’t enforce it or the guard was very friendly and let us in without paying.

Fredricksted

Fredricksted, located on the west end of the island, is the other ‘city’ on St. Croix. Normally it’s a pretty sleepy town – it’s certainly not as busy as or as big as Christiansted. There is a nice waterfront and an attractive pier stretching out over the water. The water is shallow here and is a great place to learn if you want to give scuba diving a shot. It’s also a great place for extended shore diving, night diving and especially underwater photography. N2 the Blue Dive Shop, located in town will be happy to hook you up with all the gear and lessons. There are a few shops, businesses, restaurants and hotels in and around town but most are closed during the day…

…that is until a cruise ship docks. Then the town comes to life. Vendors from all over the island set up tents to hawk their wares, shops and restaurants are open, and the street performers come out, chief among them are the Moko Jumbies. A Moko Jumbi is a stilt walker or dancer, thought to originate from a West African tradition brought to the Caribbean. Moko is a possible reference to an African god and Jumbi is a West Indian term for ghost or spirit. The Moko Jumbi watches over his village, and due to his height, is able to foresee danger and evil. We missed it but if your traveling in late December and into the New Year, check out Carnival, which is the biggest event of the year. The last weekend hosts the biggest parties.

Lunch in Fredricksted

We got off the beaten path and found the Tail End Bar and Restaurant at #3 King Street. We wanted to sample some traditional island fare so we ordered meal of bonefish and a johnnycake with a Carib beer, which is brewed in the Caribbean. Johnnycake is a cornmeal flatbread fried in an iron skillet and, although it is claimed to originate in Rhode Island, it’s a big thing here in St. Croix.

Fort Fredricksted

Fredricksted has a fort overlooking the harbor, much like Christiansted. However, this fort has done a much better job of restoring some of the rooms in the fort to represent the period of Danish rule (although after the hurricane, some of the exterior could use some work) and there are many more artifacts and historical information about the island.

Here’s a look at what an officer’s quarters might have looked like in the late 1700’s.

Hurricane Damage

Hurricane Maria hit the west end of the island hardest and there was still plenty of damage to be seen – not only here but all across the island. There were plenty of linemen still planting new electrical poles and stringing up wire. I guess you could get called out to work in worse places. We had originally thought the rough roads were a result of the Hurricane but the locals told us many of the roads had been repaired and are in better shape now than before the storm hit. If you’re looking for a silver lining…

Here’s some available waterfront property if your looking for a business opportunity in St. Croix!

The Chicken Shack

In keeping with the ‘eat well’ half of our motto, I would be remiss not mention La Reine Chicken Shack. This is the place where the locals hang out. You have to try their great open pit, woodchip coal fired barbecue chicken (they have pork, ribs, steak and seafood, too) and friendly, lively local conversation in the outdoor setting. For the best barbecue and johnnycake on the island and true island culture, make sure you stop by. But stop by early because, even though the cook over 20 cases of chicken daily, when the chicken is gone, it’s gone. We missed out on several of the specials because we got there later in the afternoon.

The Cruzan Rum Factory

There are two rum producers on St. Croix, Captain Morgan and Cruzan. Both offer tours of their distilleries but we only took the Cruzan tour. We have to save something to do for the next time we come down here!
Cruzan Rum, located on the site of an old sugar plantation, is owned by the makers of Jim Beam and is only produced at this distillery. It is then shipped in barrels to Kentucky, bottled and distributed so any bottles of Cruzan Rum you buy in St. Croix is shipped in from Kentucky, even though it’s made here. I’m sure the bean counters have some reason for the madness. Unfortunately, our tour got cut short due to a molasses spill.

Darnelle, our ‘rumologist’ asked us to use flash to take his picture indoors. His joke, not mine.

After the tour, you get to sample four types of rum. I liked the single barrel rum, which is aged 5-12 years the best. Afterward, Darnelle mixed up some cocktails using the flavored rums. Don’t drive back right after. Whew! Fortunately, there’s a nice place to relax.

Heading back in to sample another of Darnelle’s creations.

And of course there is a gift shop where you can buy all things Cruzan, including bottles of rum. American Airlines has an agreement with Cruzan that each individual can buy up to six bottles and check them for the fight home for free, as long as Cruzan packages them for you.

St. George Village Botanical Garden

Sugar became the dominant cash crop shortly after the Danish took over St. Croix in 1733. There were 300 sugar plantations here, with the last sugar factory closing in 1966. Reminders of the island’s history are all of the place, including the Estate Whim Museum. It’s a well-preserved plantation and the tour will give you a great idea what life was like in the 18th century on St. Croix. Unfortunately for us, they hadn’t re-opened after the hurricane so we went with plan B, which was a visit to the St. George Village Botanical Garden. The garden is set among the ruins and restored buildings of a Danish sugar plantation. There really isn’t much more I can say so I’ll let the pictures do the talking…

The Rain Forest

The western district of the island contains a dense, 15 acre forest called the “Rain Forest”. It’s thick with different trees, ferns and vines along with sweet lime, mangoes, hog plums and breadfruit trees, all of which have grown in wild since the days of the plantations. Several bird species call the forest home. The “Rain Forest” is private property but you can still check it out. There are numerous trails to explore and the Creque Dam is is in this area. It’s also home to the island’s famous beer drinking pigs. The roads are quite rough so a 4-wheel drive vehicle, though probably not required, is definitely better suited for the trip.

Near the “Rain Forest” in the mountains is the picturesque Carambola Golf Club. The fees are reasonable and there’s a nice community and sugar plantation ruins nearby. I would strongly consider this area if we were to buy a place in St. Croix. I’m definitely bringing my clubs next time.

Buck Island Reef National Monument

Buck Island Reef National Monument created in 1961 by President Kennedy. It is home to Turtle Beach, voted one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. I really can’t argue with the voters. There is also an underwater snorkel trail with abundant marine life. There are plaques along the trail with information on the marine flora and fauna found here. The reef is home to over 250 species of fish. Sadly, the warming ocean temperatures have bleached out the coral and it’s not as colorful and vibrant as it once was. If the snorkeling isn’t your thing, you can hang out on the beach or you can hike to the top of the island. There are several outfits that can take you over for an excursion but we chose the Big Beard full day sail on the advice of my brother.

We left Christiansted Harbor at 9:30 aboard the 42′ Catamaran RENEGADE and anchored just off Turtle Beach where the crew gave us snorkeling newbies a lessons in how to use the snorkeling gear. When everyone was comfortable, we went to the lagoon on the other side of the island where they guided us through the underwater trail. In addition to the variuos schools of colorful fish, I saw a couple nurse sharks and Cathy saw a barracuda. The water was pretty choppy, or as Captain Gabe called it, ‘sporty’ so we were all pretty tired.

After snorkeling, we sailed over to Big Beard’s private beach on St. Croix for an all you can eat lunch of burgers, hot dogs, fish and chips (not the English version) and all the rum punch you can drink, which, as it turned out, was not much for me. Luckily there were soft drinks available, as well. The afternoon’s entertainment was watching the mongooses scarf up the leftovers the crew threw off into the woods. We highly recommend a sail with Big Beard to Buck Island. Check them out at https://www.bigbeards.com.

Whale sighting! oh, wait…that’s just me.

Time’s Up!

Now that I have gotten used to driving on the left and learned my way around, it’s time to head home. Surprisingly, there is quite a bit to do on such a small island other than lying on the beach – not that that’s a bad thing. Hopefully, the next time we come back, the island will be fully recovered and more things will be open. But for now, we’re taking our rum and heading home to get ready for our next adventure.

A Vacation in St. Croix – The Big Slow