In August of 2013, we left Syracuse heading toward Nova Scotia. We
took the 3-day scenic route across the Adirondacks, through Vermont
via Route 4 and across the White Mountains in New Hampshire. One of
the highlights of this route was the Kancamagus Highway, one of the
Top 10 scenic roads and fall foliage viewing areas in the US. From
there, we crossed into Maine. Although we’ve ridden these roads
numerous times, they never fail to impress. We had never ridden
across the mountains of Maine and chose US 2 and US 1 to Eastport,
the easternmost city in the country.
took the 3-day scenic route across the Adirondacks, through Vermont
via Route 4 and across the White Mountains in New Hampshire. One of
the highlights of this route was the Kancamagus Highway, one of the
Top 10 scenic roads and fall foliage viewing areas in the US. From
there, we crossed into Maine. Although we’ve ridden these roads
numerous times, they never fail to impress. We had never ridden
across the mountains of Maine and chose US 2 and US 1 to Eastport,
the easternmost city in the country.
Wild blueberries were in
season, so when we got to Eastport, we had to stop for pastries at
Moose Island Bakery.
Someone mentioned the seafood chowder
here is terrific so while waiting for the ferry to take us over to
Canada, we decided to get some at the Quoddy Bay Lobster and Seafood
Company, which is along the water’s edge. We
were not disappointed – filled with chunks of fresh seafood and so
tasty! So, if you’re ever in the area….
I heard the lobster rolls
are to die for. Something to try the next time.
are to die for. Something to try the next time.
The ferry took us from Eastport to Canada and Deer Island. There is
a point on Deer Island that is on the 45th parallel,
half-way between the Equator and North Pole. We blew by the sign
and I didn’t want to go back for the photo op. On the other side of
Deer Island, we caught another ferry to L’Etete,
first
seeing a bald eagle flying across the water,
seeing a bald eagle flying across the water,
and then the first of
many lighthouses we’ll see on this trip.
many lighthouses we’ll see on this trip.
From there, we headed up Route
127 along the coast to St John. We arrived there just in time to
witness the Reversing Rapids caused by the tremendous rise and fall of the tides of the Bay of Fundy, which are the highest in the world. The tides of the Bay of Fundy are a result of the tidal action originating in the Southern Indian Ocean sweeping around the Cape of Good Hope and then northward into the Bay of Fundy. They are also affected by the distance of the moon from the earth at this longitude. Here in St. John, the bay tides rise 28 1/2 feet. When the tide is low, the St. John River empties into the bay. Between Fallsview Park and the Pulp Mill, the full flow of the river thunders through a narrow gorge. An underwater ledge, 36 feet below the surface causes the river to tumble downward into a 175-200 foot deep pool. The water then boils into a series of rapids and whirlpools. It was really fascinating to see.
127 along the coast to St John. We arrived there just in time to
witness the Reversing Rapids caused by the tremendous rise and fall of the tides of the Bay of Fundy, which are the highest in the world. The tides of the Bay of Fundy are a result of the tidal action originating in the Southern Indian Ocean sweeping around the Cape of Good Hope and then northward into the Bay of Fundy. They are also affected by the distance of the moon from the earth at this longitude. Here in St. John, the bay tides rise 28 1/2 feet. When the tide is low, the St. John River empties into the bay. Between Fallsview Park and the Pulp Mill, the full flow of the river thunders through a narrow gorge. An underwater ledge, 36 feet below the surface causes the river to tumble downward into a 175-200 foot deep pool. The water then boils into a series of rapids and whirlpools. It was really fascinating to see.
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| Making sure it doesn’t go anywhere on the voyage. |
After spending the night in St. John, we hopped the ferry across the Bay of Fundy to Digby, Nova Scotia.
While waiting for the ferry, we started oglinga nice classic truck behind us in line. The owner came over and
started chatting with us and it turned out he lives in Nova Scotia.
The most important piece of advice he gave us for our journey was
that the people in Nova Scotia are extremely nice and be careful not
to tailgate because they are liable to stop in the middle of the road
to talk to someone they know. We witnessed that first-hand on a
number of occasions. I very easily could’ve ridden up someone’s
tailpipe without that nugget of information.
The sights approaching Digby and Nova Scotia
We found a bed and
breakfast on outskirts of Digby which served as our home base for the
next couple of days so we could explore the area. It was a beautiful
place with sweeping vistas of the Bay of Fundy. The weather cooperated and we got to see a couple gorgeous sunsets
over the bay. The only down side was the steep gravel driveway which was a bit
unnerving .
breakfast on outskirts of Digby which served as our home base for the
next couple of days so we could explore the area. It was a beautiful
place with sweeping vistas of the Bay of Fundy. The weather cooperated and we got to see a couple gorgeous sunsets
over the bay. The only down side was the steep gravel driveway which was a bit
unnerving .
The first night we had to head into the town to sample some Digby Scallops. The Town of Digby is known for its world famous Digby Scallops
which is advertised as an eating experience that one must partake.
If we have to, we have to. They certainly lived up to the hype.
which is advertised as an eating experience that one must partake.
If we have to, we have to. They certainly lived up to the hype.
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| I’m happier than I look. |
The
next day we rode down the Digby Neck and Islands to see the
lighthouses and photograph the distinct land and rock formations at
different points of Brier and Long Islands. There are two beautiful
ferry rides on this route (Petit
Passage and Grand Passage), but make sure you bring cash as no other
form of payment is accepted.
This
area is considered to be one of Nova Scotia’s most spectacular
natural regions. Timeless small fishing villages dot the area and
the great tides of the Bay of Fundy have created a rich ecosystem
that supports an abundance of wildlife, including a great number of
whales and seabirds.
The
day was cloudy, foggy and misty, but I guess you can expect that near
the ocean. It didn’t prevent us from having a great day, however. On Long
Island, we stopped to hike along the Balancing Rock Trail to see some of the interesting rock formations and, of course, Balancing Rock.
next day we rode down the Digby Neck and Islands to see the
lighthouses and photograph the distinct land and rock formations at
different points of Brier and Long Islands. There are two beautiful
ferry rides on this route (Petit
Passage and Grand Passage), but make sure you bring cash as no other
form of payment is accepted.
This
area is considered to be one of Nova Scotia’s most spectacular
natural regions. Timeless small fishing villages dot the area and
the great tides of the Bay of Fundy have created a rich ecosystem
that supports an abundance of wildlife, including a great number of
whales and seabirds.
The
day was cloudy, foggy and misty, but I guess you can expect that near
the ocean. It didn’t prevent us from having a great day, however. On Long
Island, we stopped to hike along the Balancing Rock Trail to see some of the interesting rock formations and, of course, Balancing Rock.
From there we took the ferry over to Brier Island, which marks the entrance to the world famous Bay of Fundy. Brier Island is one of the richest marine habitats and coastal environments in the world. The village of Wesport, Nova Scotia, first settled in 1769and the only community on Brier Island (current population – about 200 permanent residents), is a traditional working fishing village and has always made it’s fortunes from the sea surrounding it.
Of course, we had to stop at the lighthouses on the islands.
I’m told that while visiting the Digby Neck, you shouldn’t miss the opportunity to do a whale watch cruise where you might see Minke, Right, Humpback and possibly Finback whales, as well as dolphins, porpise, seals and seabirds. Unfortunately, we didn’t plan for enough time to do that. I guess we need to leave some things to do for the next time we roll through.
Near Digby is the beautiful waterfront community of Annapolis Royal, nestled in the beautiful Annapolis Valley.
This area was first known as Nme’iuaquek – place of bountiful fish. The Mi’kmaq traditionally came here to gather and fish. In the 1600’s and 1700’s, it was the center of early European colonization and settlement. Near the town is the Fort Anne national Historic Site, a fort situated on 37 acres of land in Annapolis Royal and is what remains of a long line of forts first erected by the Scots, then subsequently built by the French and finally taken over and re-built by the British. The fort repelled all French attacks during the early stages of King George’s War, which was the third of the French and Indian Wars. I’ll leave it up to you to research it further if you want.
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| Of course we had to get a picture of the lighthouse |
Here’s an example of the tides in the Bay of Fundy
I had sent away for the motorcycle specific travel guide that the tourism department puts out which outlines several options for exploring
Nova Scotia. We opted for the coastal lighthouse tour, as if you hadn’t guessed by now. There are
over 160 historic lighthouses throughout Nova Scotia and we only saw
a small percentage of them. We started by going around the southern
end through Acadian Shores and Yarmouth on Highway 101 and Route 3.
Wherever Acadians settled in post-Deportation Nova Scotia, the Roman
Catholic Church was an institution of importance, as witnessed to by
the huge church buildings we saw.
Nova Scotia. We opted for the coastal lighthouse tour, as if you hadn’t guessed by now. There are
over 160 historic lighthouses throughout Nova Scotia and we only saw
a small percentage of them. We started by going around the southern
end through Acadian Shores and Yarmouth on Highway 101 and Route 3.
Wherever Acadians settled in post-Deportation Nova Scotia, the Roman
Catholic Church was an institution of importance, as witnessed to by
the huge church buildings we saw.
One such
church is St. Mary’s, a historical place of worship with its steeple
rising 185 feet above the ground. It is the largest wooden church in
North America. Built over a period of two years, from 1903 to 1905,
by 1500 volunteers under the supervision of a master carpenter who
could neither read nor write, it features large columns which are
actually complete 70 foot tall tree trunks. The tall steeple is
anchored down using 40 tons of rocks and contains 3 large bells with
a combined weight of almost 2 tons. The architecture of this church is based on the French Breton style and is the only church in the world with this style of architecture built out of wood.
church is St. Mary’s, a historical place of worship with its steeple
rising 185 feet above the ground. It is the largest wooden church in
North America. Built over a period of two years, from 1903 to 1905,
by 1500 volunteers under the supervision of a master carpenter who
could neither read nor write, it features large columns which are
actually complete 70 foot tall tree trunks. The tall steeple is
anchored down using 40 tons of rocks and contains 3 large bells with
a combined weight of almost 2 tons. The architecture of this church is based on the French Breton style and is the only church in the world with this style of architecture built out of wood.
We stopped at Smugglers Cove Provincial Park for a rest
and to take a look around the park. Smuggler’s Cove was a prime
location for the smuggling of liquor during prohibition in the 1920s.
The cove fills with ocean water during high tide and becomes
inaccessible but can be reached during low tide. You can walk inside
the cave but you will need to consult a tide table as you can only do
so between one hour before and after low tide without getting soaked.
and to take a look around the park. Smuggler’s Cove was a prime
location for the smuggling of liquor during prohibition in the 1920s.
The cove fills with ocean water during high tide and becomes
inaccessible but can be reached during low tide. You can walk inside
the cave but you will need to consult a tide table as you can only do
so between one hour before and after low tide without getting soaked.
Another lighthouse along the way.
The Fort Point lighthouse is located on the southern shore of
Liverpool Bay and has been helping vessels
navigate through Liverpool Harbour outside town of Liverpool, and
into the Mersey River since 1855 and is the third oldest surviving
lighthouse in Nova Scotia.
Lunenburg is a picturesque waterfront town named by UNESCO as a
World Heritage site. Settled in the 1600’s by Acadian Catholics
and taken by the British in 1753, it quickly became a major
shipbuilding center. Lunenburg is the birthplace of the Bluenose, a
fishing and racing schooner built in 1921 and undefeated in
international racing for 17 years and it’s replica, Bluenose II, Nova
Scotia’s sailing ambassador around the world. Seventy percent of
the original buildings from 18th and 19th
century are still standing.
World Heritage site. Settled in the 1600’s by Acadian Catholics
and taken by the British in 1753, it quickly became a major
shipbuilding center. Lunenburg is the birthplace of the Bluenose, a
fishing and racing schooner built in 1921 and undefeated in
international racing for 17 years and it’s replica, Bluenose II, Nova
Scotia’s sailing ambassador around the world. Seventy percent of
the original buildings from 18th and 19th
century are still standing.
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| St. John’s Anglican Church |
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| Ironworks Distillery |
Lunenburg Academy was built in 1893-95 to the tune of $30,000. It’s an impressive structure overlooking the town and is the only intact 19th
century Academy building surviving in Nova Scotia. This building signals a shift away from one-room
school houses to public academies.
We took a very informational horse and carriage ride around town where we learned
about the jail riot where inmates were tired of eating lobster, which
at the time was plentiful and considered poor man’s food and used
as fertilizer. They wanted it no more than 3 times a week and instead wanted bologna, which at the time was considered a rich man’s food. We also learned that the
stained glass on some of the buildings were shipped from Europe in
barrels of molasses to keep them from breaking. Interesting stuff.
about the jail riot where inmates were tired of eating lobster, which
at the time was plentiful and considered poor man’s food and used
as fertilizer. They wanted it no more than 3 times a week and instead wanted bologna, which at the time was considered a rich man’s food. We also learned that the
stained glass on some of the buildings were shipped from Europe in
barrels of molasses to keep them from breaking. Interesting stuff.
We then motored up to Peggy’s Cove – arguably the most photographed place in Canada. It was definitely the most photographed place on our trip, as you’ll see from the following pictures. Peggy’s Cove
is famed for its picturesque and typically East-Coast profile, with
houses perched along a narrow inlet and on wave-washed boulders
facing the Atlantic. Although this unique environment has been
designated a preservation area, it is still an active fishing
community.
is famed for its picturesque and typically East-Coast profile, with
houses perched along a narrow inlet and on wave-washed boulders
facing the Atlantic. Although this unique environment has been
designated a preservation area, it is still an active fishing
community.
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| The iconic Peggy’s Cove lighthouse |
There is a lot of folklore surrounding the name of Peggy’s Cove. One story
suggests the village may have been named after the wife of an early
settler. The popular legend claims that the name came from the sole
survivor of a shipwreck at Halibut Rock near the cove. Some say she was a young woman while others claim she was a little girl too young to remember her name. The family that adopted her called her Peggy. She married a resident of the cove in 1800 and became known as ‘Peggy of the Cove’, attracting visitors from around the bay who eventually named the village Peggy’s Cove, after her nickname.
suggests the village may have been named after the wife of an early
settler. The popular legend claims that the name came from the sole
survivor of a shipwreck at Halibut Rock near the cove. Some say she was a young woman while others claim she was a little girl too young to remember her name. The family that adopted her called her Peggy. She married a resident of the cove in 1800 and became known as ‘Peggy of the Cove’, attracting visitors from around the bay who eventually named the village Peggy’s Cove, after her nickname.
Another, probably more likely version, is that the village is named after Saint Margaret’s Bay (Peggy being a nickname for Margaret), which the explorer Samuel de Champlain named after his mother Marguerite. The first version is much more intriguing.
We moved on to Halifax, the capital city of Nova Scotia. We only spent the night but the waterfront area is certainly a must visit with it’s many restaurants, bars and entertainment. We had a very tasty mussels dish served in a butter and garlic sauce seated at a table outside next to the water. A great dining experience. Unfortunately, we didn’t bring the camera.
A musician at the bar we were at introduced us to Alexander Keith’s beer. Alexander Keith’s Brewery is a beautiful old stone building next door to our hotel and first began operations almost 200 years ago. Unfortunately, we arrived Saturday evening and the brewery isn’t open for tours on Sunday. Another item on the list to do next time.
Some curious light-poles on the boardwalk
And of course, the lighthouse.
From Halifax, we rode to Baddeck, which served as our home base for the primary reason we took this trip – a ride around the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton. The Cabot Trail was featured in USA
Today as one of the 10 best motorcycle
trips and Cape Breton Island is rated the #1 Island to
visit in continental North America by Travel & Leisure Magazine.
Today as one of the 10 best motorcycle
trips and Cape Breton Island is rated the #1 Island to
visit in continental North America by Travel & Leisure Magazine.
The Cabot Trail is considered one of the world’s
most scenic destinations, with stunning ocean vistas, old-growth
forests, prehistoric rock scarred by glaciers, and the mysterious
Cape Breton Highlands. Cape Breton Highlands National Park has some
of the Island’s most spectacular scenery.
most scenic destinations, with stunning ocean vistas, old-growth
forests, prehistoric rock scarred by glaciers, and the mysterious
Cape Breton Highlands. Cape Breton Highlands National Park has some
of the Island’s most spectacular scenery.
Many motorcycle forums have spirited debates on whether to ride
the trail clockwise or counter-clockwise. I asked a few of the locals their opinion and all suggested riding it counter-clockwise so
that’s the way we went. Early in the ride we saw eagle come down
to grab road kill next to us as we rode by. I was surprised at how big it was and the length of the talons. I sure wish I had invested in a Go-Pro to catch that event.
the trail clockwise or counter-clockwise. I asked a few of the locals their opinion and all suggested riding it counter-clockwise so
that’s the way we went. Early in the ride we saw eagle come down
to grab road kill next to us as we rode by. I was surprised at how big it was and the length of the talons. I sure wish I had invested in a Go-Pro to catch that event.
One friendly local turned us on to the Chowder House, a great spot for lunch in Neil’s Harbor,
a side trip off the main trail. This little gem is located
at the top of a cliff with spectacular scenery overlooking the ocean. Best seafood chowder ever, bar none!!
a side trip off the main trail. This little gem is located
at the top of a cliff with spectacular scenery overlooking the ocean. Best seafood chowder ever, bar none!!
A helicopter just happened to take off from the other side of the fence while we were there.
Another lighthouse picture.This one is an ice cream stand in disguise.
After lunch, the elevation increased and we found ourselves overlooking the MacKenzie River Valley…
… and then on around to the western side of Cape Breton and the Cabot Trail…
… and back to Baddeck with this view of the lighthouse on Bras d’Or Lakes.
Time is up for our visit to Nova Scotia. Our return trip took us along Route 2 through New Brunswick to Fredricton where we spent the night. There was a lot of nothing along Route 2 – and that includes gas
stations. I had a vision of running out of gas and being eaten by bears
and coyotes. I finally found one and coasted in on fumes. Note to
self – make sure you have a full tank before leaving Nova Scotia. I thought about visiting Havelock where my grandfather was born but time wouldn’t allow it. From Fredricton, we headed south, re-entering the good ole USA at Saint Stephen. We crossed Maine on Route 9 and US 2 and, as we were crossing into New Hampshire, ran into one of the worst thunderstorms I’ve ever seen. Being on the motorcycle in the middle of nowhere with no place to hide didn’t help any. Even our rain gear was of no use to keep us dry. Two weeks on the road and that was the first time we ran into rain. Not bad. We spent the night in Gorham and then made the final run home.
We left plenty of things to do for our next trip to Nova Scotia. We’ll spend more time in Halifax, explore more of Cape Breton, check out the interior of the province and definitely do a whale watch cruise. There is even a seafood trail and a good cheer trail, where you can sample wine, beer, cider and spirits from local producers. We may even visit Prince Edward Island for some local mussels and cross over to Newfoundland. One thing is for sure – one two week trip isn’t enough to experience all Nova Scotia has to offer.
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