I’ve head that the Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia is one of the epic motorcycle roads in North America. This is the year we plan to verify that claim. While the Cabot Trail is the ultimate destination, I figured we should check out what else Nova Scotia has to offer. Trip plans began in earnest in the winter by ordering the motorcycle specific tour guide of Nova Scotia from the tourism department. It outlines several options for exploring Nova Scotia. There is a seafood trail and a good cheer trail, where you can sample wine, beer, cider and spirits from local producers. We opted for the coastal lighthouse tour of Nova Scotia. There are over 160 historic lighthouses throughout Nova Scotia. Since we had a limited time frame, we only managed to see a small percentage of them.
Side Stands Up!
We left Syracuse in August to begin our lighthouse tour of Nova Scotia. We could’ve taken the direct route and gotten there much quicker than we did, but what fun is that? Instead, we took the 3-day scenic route across the Adirondacks, through Vermont via Route 4 and across the White Mountains in New Hampshire. These are some of the most panoramic roads in the northeast, twisting through the mountains and along rivers and streams. One of the highlights of this route was the Kancamagus Highway, one of the Top 10 scenic roads and fall foliage viewing areas in the US, according to several travel sites and magazines. Although we’ve ridden these roads numerous times, they never fail to impress.
After leaving New Hampshire on Route 302, we worked our way across Maine toward Eastport. I wish I could tell you how we got there but I was making it up as we went along and got lost a couple times. We got there eventually.
Eastport, Maine
Eastport is the eastern-most city in the US. And wild blueberries were in season, so we had to stop for a snack at Moose Island Bakery upon arrival. The blueberry tart and a blueberry pastry looked delicious so we gave them a try. The tart was overflowing with fruit and had just the right amount of sugar sprinkled on top to balance the tartness in the wild blueberries. The pastry was soft and chewy and loaded with blueberries.
Someone mentioned the seafood chowder here is terrific so while waiting for the ferry to take us over to Canada, we decided to get some at the Quoddy Bay Lobster and Seafood Company, which is along the water’s edge. We were not disappointed – filled with chunks of fresh seafood and so tasty!
I heard the lobster rolls are to die for. Something to try the next time. And if you find yourself needing a shot of caffeine, Dastardly Dick’s is the place. So, if you’re ever in the area….
The ferry took us from Eastport to Canada and Deer Island. There is a point on Deer Island that is on the 45th parallel, half-way between the Equator and North Pole. We blew by the sign and I didn’t want to go back for the photo op. On the other side of Deer Island, we caught another ferry to L’Etete.
Along the way we saw a beautiful bald eagle flying low across the water.
Green’s Point Lighthouse
On the ferry from Deer Island to L’Etete we passed the Green’s Point Lighthouse. It overlooks the L’Etete Passage used by vessels to enter Passamaquoddy Bay en route to the wharves at St. Andrews, St. Stephen, and St. George. L’etete is derived from the French “la tete,” which means “the head,” and likely refers to the headlands that bracket the passage. This lighthouse isn’t in Nova Scotia but I’ll include it in our tour.
St. John, New Brunswick
After disembarking the ferry in L’Etete, we headed up Route 127 along the coast to St John. We arrived there as the tide was going out and were fortunate enough to witness the Reversing Rapids. The rapids are caused by the tremendous rise and fall of the tides of the Bay of Fundy, which are the highest in the world. The tides are a result of the tidal action originating in the Southern Indian Ocean sweeping around the Cape of Good Hope and then northward into the Bay of Fundy. The distance of the moon from the earth at this longitude also affects the tides. Here in St. John, the bay tides rise 28 1/2 feet. Between Fallsview Park and the Pulp Mill, the full flow of the river thunders through a narrow gorge. As the tide begins to lower, the river tumbles downward into a 175-200 foot deep pool. The water then boils into a series of rapids and whirlpools as it empties into the bay. As the tide begins to rise, the current of the river slows for a brief period, called slack tide. At high tide, the river flow reverses and the rapids and whirlpools form again. It was really fascinating to watch.
Heading to Nova Scotia
After spending the night in St. John, we hopped the ferry across the Bay of Fundy to Digby, Nova Scotia. While waiting for the ferry, we started ogling a nice classic truck behind us in line. The owner came over and started chatting with us and it turned out he lives in Nova Scotia. The most important piece of advice he gave us for our journey was that the people in Nova Scotia are extremely nice and we should be careful not to tailgate. Cars are liable to stop in the middle of the road to talk to someone they know. We witnessed that first-hand on a number of occasions. I very easily could’ve ridden up someone’s tailpipe without that nugget of information.
Digby, Nova Scotia
Our first order of business after the crossing was to find a place to sample some of Digby’s famous scallops. Scallops have been ingrained in Digby’s local culture for over a century. They are as common as chicken in the US. Traditionally the domain of high-end expensive restaurant dishes, we found menu items with scallops piled into burgers, soups and every other imaginable edible concoction. They were incredibly cheap and fresh. So if you’re a seafood lover, this is the place for you.
After dinner, we needed to find a place to stay. We like to ride until we feel like stopping but sometimes that can cause problems. Fortunately, you can stop into any tourist information center and they are more than helpful in finding lodging for you. Apparently, there is a data base that local hotels, motels, inns, etc. can advertise any open rooms they have for the night. The friendly people in the offices can tap into that data base and find whatever kind of room your looking for at whatever price point you want. We took advantage of that several times on this tour.
We found a bed and breakfast on outskirts of Digby which served as our home base for the next couple of days so we could explore the area. It was a beautiful place with sweeping vistas of the Bay of Fundy. The weather cooperated and we got to see a couple gorgeous sunsets over the bay. The only down side was the steep gravel driveway which was a bit unnerving. All in all, it was a great spot to begin our coastal lighthouse tour of Nova Scotia.
The Digby Neck
The next day we rode down the Digby Neck and Islands to see the lighthouses and photograph the distinct land and rock formations at different points of Brier and Long Islands. There are two beautiful ferry rides on this route (Petit Passage and Grand Passage), but make sure you bring cash as no other form of payment is accepted. This area is considered to be one of Nova Scotia’s most spectacular natural regions. Timeless small fishing villages dot the area and the great tides of the Bay of Fundy have created a rich ecosystem that supports an abundance of wildlife, including a great number of whales and seabirds. The day was cloudy, foggy and misty, but I guess you can expect that near the ocean. It didn’t prevent us from having a great day, however.
Balancing Rock
On Long Island, we stopped to hike along the Balancing Rock Trail to see some of the interesting rock formations and, of course, Balancing Rock. The well-groomed trail is 2.5 km (1.6 miles for us Americans) and has several benches and interpretive plaques along the way. At the end is a 235 step staircase leading down to a viewing platform over looking St. Mary’s Bay and Balancing Rock. The views would have been much more impressive on a clear day.
Brier Island
From there we took the ferry over to Brier Island, which marks the entrance to the world famous Bay of Fundy. Brier Island is one of the richest marine habitats and coastal environments in the world. The village of Wesport, Nova Scotia, first settled in 1769and the only community on Brier Island (current population – about 200 permanent residents), is a traditional working fishing village and has always made it’s fortunes from the sea surrounding it.
Brier Island Lighthouse
The first lighthouse we visited on our tour of Nova Scotia was the Brier Island Lighthouse. Also known as the Western Light, this point marks the spot where the Bay of Fundy officially begins. The waters south of here are the Gulf of Maine and the waters North are the Bay of Fundy. As the most westerly point in all of Nova Scotia the lighthouse is the perfect spot to enjoy the sunset. The historical Western Light is the 3rd oldest lighthouse in Nova Scotia and is still operational today through a fully automated system.
Grand Passage Lighthouse
The Grand Passage Lighthouse sits on the north shore of the Grand Passage between Brier and Long Islands. Also known as the Northern Lighthouse, it overlooks the Bay of Fundy and is a good spot to explore the rocky coast and maybe spot some sea life. We were lucky enough to spot a couple seals playing just of the shore.
Speaking of sea life, the Digby Neck is a great place to catch a whale watch cruise. Minke, Right, Humpback and possibly Finback whales are in the area, as well as dolphins, seals and seabirds. Unfortunately, we didn’t plan for enough time to do that. I guess we need to leave some things to do for the next time we roll through.
Annapolis Royal
Near Digby is the charming waterfront community of Annapolis Royal, nestled in the beautiful Annapolis Valley. This area was first known as Nme’iuaquek – place of bountiful fish. The Mi’kmaq traditionally came here to gather and fish. In the 1600’s and 1700’s, it was the center of early European colonization and settlement. Annapolis Royal, is the oldest town in Nova Scotia and served as the capital of Nova Scotia until the founding of Halifax in 1749. That explains why there are so many heritage buildings the town.
We happen to be in town during low tide. These pictures give you an idea of the ebb and flow of the tide. You can see the high tide mark on the dock behind the boat.
Fort Anne
Near the town is the Fort Anne National Historic Site, a fort situated on 37 acres of land in Annapolis Royal and is what remains of a long line of forts first erected by the Scots, then subsequently built by the French and finally taken over and re-built by the British. The fort repelled all French attacks during the early stages of King George’s War, which was the third of the French and Indian Wars.
Annapolis Lighthouse
Annapolis Lighthouse marks Annapolis Royal and signals the end of navigable waters for vessels navigating the Annapolis River. The town built the tower in 1889 on the water’s edge on St. George Street at the site of the old Government House, which burned down in 1833. The lighthouse is a white wooden pepper-shaker-style tower style standing 8.5 meters tall with a red lantern room and a fixed light.
In former days, the Annapolis waterfront was quite busy with the steamer City of Monticello providing passenger service to Saint John, New Brunswick and the Windsor and Annapolis Railway servicing a wharf in the harbor. Vessels used to sail farther up the Annapolis River, but this is no longer possible since the completion of the Annapolis Royal Tidal Power Generating Station in 1984.
Around the Coast
We continued our lighthouse tour by going around the southern end of Nova Scotia through Acadian Shores and Yarmouth on Highway 101 and Route 3. Smugglers Cove Provincial Park seemed like a good place for a rest so we stopped and took a look around. Smuggler’s Cove was a prime location for smuggling liquor during prohibition in the 1920s. The cove fills with ocean water and is inaccessible during high tide. You can however, walk inside the cave at low tide. You will need to consult a tide table as you can only do so between one hour before and after low tide without getting soaked.
There is a rich Acadian culture in Nova Scotia. Where ever Acadians settled in post-Deportation Nova Scotia, the Roman Catholic Church was an institution of importance, as witnessed to by the huge church buildings we saw.
Eglise Sainte-Marie
One such church is Eglise Sainte-Marie (St. Mary’s), a historical place of worship with its steeple rising 185 feet above the ground. It”s the largest wooden church in North America. About 1500 volunteers built this church over two years starting in 1903, supervised by a master carpenter that couldn’t read or write. It features large columns which are actually complete 70 foot tall tree trunks. The tall steeple is anchored down using 40 tons of rocks and contains 3 large bells with a combined weight of almost 2 tons. The architecture of this church is based on the French Breton style and is the only church in the world with this style of architecture built out of wood.
Baccaro point Lighthouse
Baccaro Point is the southernmost point on the Nova Scotia mainland. The original tower and keeper’s house burned in 1934 and was replaced by this square, pyramidal tower
Fort Point Lighthouse
The Fort Point Lighthouse is located on the southern shore of Liverpool Bay. It’s been helping vessels navigate through Liverpool Harbor and into the Mersey River since 1855. The Fort Point light is the third oldest surviving lighthouse in Nova Scotia.
Lunenburg
This was one of our favorite stops on our lighthouse tour of Nova Scotia despite the fact we couldn’t find a lighthouse here. Lunenburg is a picturesque waterfront town named by UNESCO as a World Heritage site. Settled in the 1600’s by Acadian Catholics and taken by the British in 1753, it quickly became a major shipbuilding center. Lunenburg is the birthplace of the Bluenose, a fishing and racing schooner built in 1921 and undefeated in international racing for 17 years. It’s replica, Bluenose II, Nova Scotia’s sailing ambassador around the world, is anchored here. Seventy percent of the original buildings from 18th and 19th century are still standing.
Lunenburg Academy cost $30,000 to build in 1893-95. It’s an impressive structure overlooking the town and is the only intact 19th century Academy building surviving in Nova Scotia. This building signals a shift away from one-room school houses to public academies.
Lunenburg Prison Riot
The story as told to us by a local is that lobster was very plentiful in the 17th century. The population considered the crustacean as one of the least desirable foods, often using it as fertilizer and feed for livestock. The people who ate it were the poor and lower class – and the prison population. At one point, the prisoners revolted, demanding to be fed baloney on occasion, which was what the upper class of the day feasted on. My, how the times have changed!
Peggy’s Cove
After leaving Lunnenburg, we motored up to Peggy’s Cove – arguably the most photographed place in Canada. It was definitely the most photographed place on our trip. Peggy’s Cove is famed for its picturesque and typically East-Coast profile, with houses perched along a narrow inlet and on wave-washed boulders facing the Atlantic. Although this unique environment is a preservation area, it is still an active fishing community.
Peggy’s Cove and Point most likely named got its name after St. Margaret’s Bay, as Peggy is a nickname for Margaret, but there are also some more fanciful explanations for its name. One story suggests the village gets its name after the wife of an early settler. The popular legend claims that the name came from the sole survivor of a shipwreck at Halibut Rock near the cove. Some say she was a young woman while others claim she was a little girl too young to remember her name. The family that adopted her called her Peggy. She married a resident of the cove in 1800 and became known as ‘Peggy of the Cove’, attracting visitors from around the bay who eventually named the village Peggy’s Cove, after her nickname.
Peggy’s Point Lighthouse
Peggy’s Point Lighthouse is easily the most photographed lighthouse in Canada and has become a recognized landmark worldwide. This was definitely the most picturesque lighthouse of our Nova Scotia tour. It overlooks St. Margaret’s Bay, bounded by the Chebucto Peninsula to the east, the Aspotogan Peninsula to the west, and the Atlantic Ocean to the south. Peggy’s Point marks the eastern side of the entrance to St. Margaret’s Bay. Just inside Peggy’s Point is the tiny inlet known as Peggy’s Cove.
Halifax
After visiting Peggy’s Cove, we moved on to Halifax, the capital city of Nova Scotia. We only spent the night, which is unfortunate because the city looks like it has a lot to offer. For dinner, we visited the waterfront area with it’s many restaurants, bars and entertainment. We had a very tasty mussels dish served in a butter and garlic sauce seated at a table outside next to the water. Great weather, great view, great food. A great dining experience. Afterwards, we found a night spot to listen to some music and have a beverage or two. Unfortunately, we didn’t bring the camera.
A musician at the bar we were at introduced us to Alexander Keith’s beer. Alexander Keith’s Brewery is a beautiful old stone building next door to our hotel and first began operations almost 200 years ago.
Unfortunately, we arrived Saturday evening and the brewery isn’t open for tours on Sunday. Another item on the list to do next time.
Some interesting ‘sculptures’ on the boardwalk
Georges Island Lighthouse
On the west side of Georges Island in the harbor of Halifax stands the Georges Island Lighthouse. Georges Island is situated just off the waterfront in Halifax. In the past, it played an important role in both defending and lighting the harbor. Georges Island became home to a battery of cannons in 1750, just a year after Halifax was founded. The island served as a prison for large numbers of Acadians during the Acadian Deportation in the mid-1700s. Earthworks were added to the island during the American Revolution. The original 21 foot high square wooden structure burned in 1916. The present octagonal concrete was built in 1917. Plans call for a wharf, Improved trails and signage visitors can visit the island starting in 2020.
Baddeck
Leaving Halifax in the morning, we rode to Baddeck, which served as our home base for the next few days of our lighthouse tour of Nova Scotia. Baddeck is a quaint village situated on the northern shore of Bras d’Or Lake. Alexander Graham Bell and his family visited Baddeck in 1885 and fell in love with the place. In 1892, Bell started construction of a summer house which he called “Beinn Bhreagh,” Gaelic for beautiful mountain. Alexander had a laboratory here where he conducted experiments with tetrahedral kites, hydrofoils, aircraft, and sheep breeding. He died at Beinn Bhreagh in 1922 and was buried on the property, which is still owned by the family. Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Park is located in Baddeck and features a museum that houses many artifacts donated by the Bell family.
Kidston Island Lighthouse
Just off-shore from Baddeck is Kidston Island, home to the Kidston Island Lighthouse. The original lighthouse was built in 1875. That was replace in 1911 by a new fifty-foot-tall, square, wooden tower. The new tower was much taller than its predecessor and raised the focal plane of the light from thirty-one feet to forty-eight feet. The Village of Baddeck acquired Kidston Island in 1959, and leases it to the local Lions Club which operates a ferry to the island during the summer.
The Cabot Trail
We continued our lighthouse tour of Nova Scotia with a ride around the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton. Cape Breton Island is rated the #1 Island to visit in continental North America by Travel & Leisure Magazine. And USA Today featured the Cabot Trail as one of the 10 best motorcycle trips. The Cabot Trail is considered one of the world’s most scenic destinations, with stunning ocean vistas, old-growth forests, prehistoric rock scarred by glaciers, and the mysterious Cape Breton Highlands. I figured we were in for a treat.
Many motorcycle forums have spirited debates on whether to ride the trail clockwise or counter-clockwise. I asked a few of the locals their opinion and all suggested riding it counter-clockwise to keep the ocean and views on the right. Who am I to question local wisdom?
Our intention was to complete the loop of 186 miles in one day. We left Baddeck early in the morning and headed north on the Trans-Canada Highway (Rte 105), making a left onto Cabot Trail Road (Rte 30). Not long after making the turn and riding through some beautiful forest, we saw a bald eagle come down to grab some road kill. I could have almost kicked it as we rode by (not that I would). What an awesome sight! I sure wish I had invested in a Go-Pro to catch that event.
Just past Ingonish, the road starts hugging the coastline.
Neil’s Harbor
One friendly local suggested a side trip to Neil’s Harbor while on our way around the Cabot Trail. This small fishing village has a sheltered cove and is close to abundant fishing grounds. Neil’s Harbor was a popular fishing base for both Scottish and French settlers in the 1700s. Take a right off Rte. 30 onto New Haven Rd. as you approach New Haven and the northern section of the trail – you can’t miss it.
Being this close to great fishing, it comes as no surprise that Neil’s Harbor is home to the Chowder House, a great spot for lunch. This little gem is located at the top of a cliff with spectacular scenery overlooking the ocean. It also serves up the best seafood chowder ever, bar none!!
Neil’s Harbor Lighthouse
Next to the Chowder House stands the Neil’s Harbor Lighthouse. Between 1871 and 1891, the population of Neil’s Harbor and nearby New Haven swelled to 430, due to an influx of Newfoundland fishermen looking for better fishing grounds. To mark the entrance to the harbor, the Department of Marine established a lighthouse in 1899 on the outer edge of the headland that protects the harbor.
We continued our Cabot Trail ride on New Haven Road heading north, catching White Point Road back to Rte. 30 and the Cabot Trail. It’s a picturesque side trip but the roads are a little rough so watch your speed or you could end up jarring your spine on a pot hole. Ask me how I know.
Cape Breton Highlands
After we rounded the northern part of the Cabot Trail we headed south along the Gulf of St. Lawrence and into the Cape Breton Highlands. Cape Breton Highlands National Park has some of the Island’s most spectacular scenery and some of the best on the Cabot Trail.
MacKenzie River Valley
As we neared the end of our day, we crossed through the MacKenzie River Valley with more splendid views of the Cape Breton Highlands.
I even found time for a nap.
We arrived back in Baddeck late in the afternoon tired and hungry but exhilarated by our day’s travels. Next time we’ll take it at a slower pace to see more of the sights.
Heading Home
Time is up for our lighthouse tour of Nova Scotia. Our return trip took us along Trans-Canada Highway through New Brunswick. There’s a lot of nothing along this section of highway – and that includes gas stations. I had a vision of running out of gas and being eaten by bears and coyotes as my gas gauge approached ‘E’. I finally found one and coasted in on fumes. Note to self – make sure you have a full tank before leaving Nova Scotia.
We turned south at Fredricton onto Highway 3, re-entering the good ol’ USA at Saint Stephen. We crossed Maine on State Route 9 and US 2 and, as we were crossing into New Hampshire, ran into one of the worst thunderstorms I’ve ever been in. Being on the motorcycle in the middle of nowhere with no place to hide didn’t help any. Even our rain gear was of little use to keep us dry. Two weeks on the road and that was the first time we ran into rain. Not bad. We traveled across northern New Hampshire and Vermont looking for moose (didn’t see any) and navigated our way through the Adirondacks and finally home.
We left plenty of things to do for our next trip to Nova Scotia. We’ll spend more time in Halifax, explore more of Cape Breton, check out the interior of the province and definitely do a whale watch cruise. We may even visit Prince Edward Island for some local mussels and cross over to Newfoundland. One thing is for sure – one two week trip isn’t enough to experience all Nova Scotia has to offer. In the immortal words of Arnold Schwarzenegger, “I’ll be back.”
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